Lightobject.com Support Forum

Well, I have just replaced the RDLC320-A DSP with the AWC608. I finally got all the motors going the correct directions homing to the upper right corner. Still having problems with the auto-focus feature. I also discovered that the DSP would not fire the laser. The only change in the system is controller. The water protect and open protect is connected to the PSU, not the DSP. I don't have water protect or open protect enabled in firmware. I don't know what I am missing here. I know the laser will still fire - just not by using the DSP.

I'm pretty sure I have missed something simple but cannot figure it out. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Zeke

Zeke:

Did you hook up a water sensor to the power supply (PSD)? If not, it won't fire

Autofocus is tested and working fine here as I just made some test per customer request. You may want to upgrade the OS to the 7.14.02.20 if you're planning to use power Z table. Without the upgrade, the Z is moving very fast upward and less torque


Marco

Yes. The water flow sensor is connected to the power supply. And I do have 14.02.20 installed and auto-focus still does not work.

Laser fires now...water protect to the PSU was staying high. Fixed that but now can't seem to get the open protect to work. What input should the open protect be connected to? I tried IN1 but it had no effect.

Tech_Marco wrote:Zeke:

Did you hook up a water sensor to the power supply (PSD)? If not, it won't fire

Autofocus is tested and working fine here as I just made some test per customer request. You may want to upgrade the OS to the 7.14.02.20 if you're planning to use power Z table. Without the upgrade, the Z is moving very fast upward and less torque


Marco

I'm having the same problem Marco. The laser fires when I press the TEST button on the laser power supply but doesn't fire when I press the LASER button on the control panel. So you are saying that the laser will not fire from the control panel unless a water sensor is power supply? Which water sensor do I need to buy on your store? How is the sensor wired up?

Thanks,

Bob

zkmiller wrote:Laser fires now...water protect to the PSU was staying high. Fixed that but now can't seem to get the open protect to work. What input should the open protect be connected to? I tried IN1 but it had no effect.

You need to enable the "Open Protect" on LaserCad setting

Marco

Tech_Marco wrote:

zkmiller wrote:Laser fires now...water protect to the PSU was staying high. Fixed that but now can't seem to get the open protect to work. What input should the open protect be connected to? I tried IN1 but it had no effect.

You need to enable the "Open Protect" on LaserCad setting

Marco

So I just need to enable "Open Protect" in LaserCAD. Ok, I'll give that a try. I went ahead and ordered the flow meter sensor anyway.

Thanks,

Bob

You need to have a sensor switch to be installed to sense the the laser machine front cover open or close.
Generally speaking, not too many folks would do it as it cause very inconvenience when doing jobs because it is very often that you need to open the cover to check the status. Wearing a eyes protection goggle seems more practical


Marco

I'm not sure if you were talking to me or to Zeke about open protect Marco. I'm having the same problem, laser fires when I press the TEST button on the laser power supply but doesn't fire from the control panel. I've double checked my wiring. The laser current meter says 0.0 but every few seconds it says -0.0, then back to 0.0. When I press the LASER button on the control panel, nothing happens, laser doesn't fire and the meter doesn't change. I must have missed something but don't know what it might be.

Bob

Bob:

You jumped into too quick when I was talking to Zkmiller. He was asking for something else: Open protect which was not the same case of yours. Then you jumped in and I tried to answer your question after him.

When I saw "Open protect", it was about the front door open protection, not water protection. Open Protect is controlled by IN1

Bob, you didn't get fire because you didn't have "Water protection" connected. You need to make sure that the power supply has a water sensor installed to "WP" & "Gnd" that enable the power supply to fire once water is flowing.

To do test, you can by pass it by putting a cable two bridge the Gnd & Gnd


Marco

Tech_Marco wrote:Bob:

You jumped into too quick when I was talking to Zkmiller. He was asking something else: Open protect which was not the same case of yours. Then you jumped in and I tried to answer your question after him.

When I saw "Open protect", it was about the front door open protection, not water protection. In is controlled by IN1

Bob, you didn't get fire because you didn't have "Water protection" connected. You need to make sure that the power supply has a water sensor installed to "WP" & "Gnd" that enable the power supply to fire once water is flowing.

To do test, you can by pass it by putting a cable two bridge the Gnd & Gnd


Marco

Sorry about that Marco, didn't mean to interrupt. Ok, so I've ordered the water sensor and will hook it up as soon as it comes. But you say I can at least test it by putting a cable to bridge the Gnd and WP on the power supply. I'll give that a try.

Thanks,

Bob

Yep, that worked. I won't do any more firing until that sensor comes. Thanks Marco, I really appreciate your expertise.

Bob

lauckstreet wrote:Yep, that worked. I won't do any more firing until that sensor comes. Thanks Marco, I really appreciate your expertise.

Bob

If you read my previous, the sensor you bought was not good for this case. It is too small for water flow. Also, you already have a chiller there is a water sensor built-in. You just need to connect wires from the water sensor to the PSU will do the same

Marco

Oh, so you won't be sending that sensor but will refund the purchase. I'll make the connection from the chiller to the power supply then.

Thanks,

Bob

Looking at the book that came with the chiller, it looks like I need to use pins H1 and H3 to connect to GND and WP on the power supply. I can't tell which pin (H1 or H3) is ground and which is WP. Does it really matter?

Bob