Cabinet Warning Labels and Emergency Kill Switch

[Toasty]

I think it would be nice if someone offered a set of proper laser warning labels for a converted k40 engraver.

I supposed I could simply make or engrave my own but does anyone here have a machine that has them already that we could see along with their location on the machine?

Also, I'm about ready to wire up the emergency kill switch that came with the dsp kit. Does anyone have an example of how it should be wired?

[Telrad]

You could wire it with the lid open switch. The laser and gantries will stop immediately if i lift the lid to my engraver. It starts right back up when the lid is then closed. However, it does nothing when the machine is reseting itself.

[Toasty]

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm also doing a lid switch, but I'm referring to the big red emergency kill switch that comes with the dsp kit.

[wctx1977]

Hi all!
I haven't added a emergency kill switch to my machine yet and I should probably be doing sometime very soon. Being able to stop the gantry and laser output in case of fire or other abnormality would be good but my opinion is that the kill switch should probably be at the main power. My reasoning is that worse case scenario, if there is a water leak, you should try to kill all to avoid it to get in to the laser power supply or its connections as it is the most dangerous part of the whole machine not taking in account the main power line itself. Believe me! if something like that should happen you should care about your own protection and forget about the job being ruined.

[Toasty]

Hi all!
I haven't added a emergency kill switch to my machine yet and I should probably be doing sometime very soon. Being able to stop the gantry and laser output in case of fire or other abnormality would be good but my opinion is that the kill switch should probably be at the main power. My reasoning is that worse case scenario, if there is a water leak, you should try to kill all to avoid it to get in to the laser power supply or its connections as it is the most dangerous part of the whole machine not taking in account the main power line itself. Believe me! if something like that should happen you should care about your own protection and forget about the job being ruined.

My plan was to wire it as a main power shutdown. The switch has 4 contacts, should it be wired before or after the on/off switch in the circuit?

That's a really good point about water leaks. I never thought much about it but the tubes are directly above the main input power and when you do a conversion the power supply is pushed back there and would get wet for sure. Kinda scary, would the fuse offer any protection in that situation (my machine has a fuse btw, I know some don't)?

Do the silicone water tubes hold up pretty well? Are water leaks ever an issue? Now you have me freaked out. lol

[wctx1977]

Hi Toasty,

It would probably be better to wire it before the I/O switch and yes, a fuse is always recommended however I still believe is no enough. I was thinking my self to add a dedicated line for the machine with a GFI (ground fault interrupter) at the wall to reduce the chances of electrical shock from the case, in case there is a water spillage. I think the silicone tubes are ok but they should be inspected regularly just to make sure they are ok.
I hane not had any water leaks but the way this things are designed there are great reasons to be concerned about safety and I don't think anyone wants to find out the wrong way . Anyway, it's only my opinion and does not mean it would be the best solution to everyone and I just want to share it to make it a better machine. May be I am paranoid but I rather to be that way . Take care and lets continue having fun withs this machine

[Toasty]

Ok, like I told Marco, I know enough about electronics to ask stupid questions. Here goes another... lol

I'm sitting here with my multimeter and the emergency kill switch. I see that two terminals are normally closed (#11 and #12) and two are normally open (#23 and #24).

I assume you use two of the terminals (#11 and #12 in this case) for just one of the 120 volt AC input wires that goes to the on/off switch.

Anyone have a picture of their setup?

[wctx1977]

Hi Toasty,

I love to ask a lot of stupid questions if that's what they are! In fact I told this to someone that judged a question I made " Don't call me stupid for asking a stupid question, instead call me stupid for NOT asking a question". There is not such a thing when you don't know the answer even if it is very simple.

I don't have a kill switch on hand yet but it sounds like your kill switch is able to supply 2 lines and it depends how many amps it will handle per line. It is possible that it will be able to use only one line alone by using one open leg and one closed leg but if I was you I would use both lines in to one. That means that you need to make the 2 open terminals as one and the 2 closed terminals as the other one and connect it as if was you main on/off switch.
If my explanation is doubtful please take a picture of the kill switch terminals and let me see it. That way it would be easier for me to tell how it should be wired
Let me know how it goes!