Converting K40IV CO2 Laser machine to DSP

[waltfl]

Hi
just a suggestion order a GaAs lens they give you up to 40% more cutting power and they are pretty scratch resistend.
I clean them with eyglass lens cleaner and a eyglass wipe it works perfect. I use this lens now for 6 month heavy work every day
and they still like new no scratches no nothing
greetings
waltfl

Thanks! I will order a new one. So quick question though...the size 20mm, is that how big around it is supposed to be? I measured mine and it is only 12mm.

[shaneburton]

Thanks! I will check it out.

[shaneburton]

Ok it doesn't look like Marco has any GaAs lenses. What is the functional differences between the HQ ZnSE lens and the GaAs lens?

[shaneburton]

Here is what I am thinking about getting. Marco any thoughts? Should this make my machine work a lot better?

Pro laser head mount for 20mm mirror & 18mm focus lens. LR Type LSR-HD2018LR

High quality 18mm ZnSe Focus lens (F50.8mm) LSR-ZNSE1850HQ

Pro 20mm reflection mirror mount for Co2 laser machine LSR-PR20M2D

20mm High quality Si Plated Reflection Mirror LSR-MIR20SSH

[Tech_Marco]

Unfortunately you can't use those laser mount or laser head as it's too big & too heavy to be used in K40. Just upgrade the lens to high quality one is more than you need. The little laser head we're selling can fit up to 20mm lens. You can get a 14mm or 18mm or 20mm with focus point 50.8mm.

I don't carry GaAs as it's very expensive. Usually it is used in high end and high power laser machine.

Marco

[shaneburton]

Ok I thought you said my machine couldn't use a 20mm? I am going to use the laser head that was in the K40 kit then...you are saying that will hold a 20? If so then shouldn't I go with that as it is better quality, or does it matter?

[Tech_Marco]

I didn't say that you couldn't use 20mm focus lens on your machine. If you review the last post, I mean the Pro laser head or mount that you couldn't use. For K40, use 16 or 18mm is just fine. No need to use 20mm as the light beam size is about 4~5mm

Marco

[shaneburton]

Thanks and sorry for the confusion. I will order the 18MM HQ lens. I appreciate your help as always.

[natsterrr]

I'm just trying to wire up my DSP kit now. Having a bit of trouble!

This wiring diagram is very good, but still a couple of questions:

1. Where do the mains power supply wires come into this system? In Marco's photo it looks like they are doubled up to the "L" and the "N" on the 24v psu. Is that right?
2. There is a "+V" and a "COM" red and black wire going to the Y-axis stepper motor controller, but none going to the X-axis stepper motor controller. Should this be spliced/doubled from the same output at the 24V psu?

In the PDF of the conversion there aren't any photos of the 24V psu wired up - I think it would be helpful if the wiring diagram (completed with external power inputs) could be added to the PDF and also some more images showing how to wire it up.
Up to the wiring stage, the instructions were great!

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Natsterrr

[natsterrr]

I'm just trying to wire up my DSP kit now. Having a bit of trouble!

This wiring diagram is very good, but still a couple of questions:

1. Where do the mains power supply wires come into this system? In Marco's photo it looks like they are doubled up to the "L" and the "N" on the 24v psu. Is that right?
2. There is a "+V" and a "COM" red and black wire going to the Y-axis stepper motor controller, but none going to the X-axis stepper motor controller. Should this be spliced/doubled from the same output at the 24V psu?

In the PDF of the conversion there aren't any photos of the 24V psu wired up - I think it would be helpful if the wiring diagram (completed with external power inputs) could be added to the PDF and also some more images showing how to wire it up.
Up to the wiring stage, the instructions were great!

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Natsterrr

OK, I had another look at the way the original K40 was set up, and it used a little junction block for the 240v AC input. I kept this block and hooked it up as follows.
One set of red/black wires goes to the case cooling fan (240V AC).
One set of red/black wires goes to the laser power supply (AC/AC)
The last set of red/black wires goes to the 24V PSU - Red to "L" and black to "N". This differs to the wiring diagram on here.

I have wired up the kit as per the old set up, and also doubled up the wires from "V+" and "COM" to go to the x axis and the y axis stepper motor drivers.

I think its ready to turn on!

That will be tomorrow's job, for now, its bed time!

Natsterrr.

[natsterrr]

I'm just trying to wire up my DSP kit now. Having a bit of trouble!

This wiring diagram is very good, but still a couple of questions:

1. Where do the mains power supply wires come into this system? In Marco's photo it looks like they are doubled up to the "L" and the "N" on the 24v psu. Is that right?
2. There is a "+V" and a "COM" red and black wire going to the Y-axis stepper motor controller, but none going to the X-axis stepper motor controller. Should this be spliced/doubled from the same output at the 24V psu?

In the PDF of the conversion there aren't any photos of the 24V psu wired up - I think it would be helpful if the wiring diagram (completed with external power inputs) could be added to the PDF and also some more images showing how to wire it up.
Up to the wiring stage, the instructions were great!

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Natsterrr

OK, I had another look at the way the original K40 was set up, and it used a little junction block for the 240v AC input. I kept this block and hooked it up as follows.
One set of red/black wires goes to the case cooling fan (240V AC).
One set of red/black wires goes to the laser power supply (AC/AC)
The last set of red/black wires goes to the 24V PSU - Red to "L" and black to "N". This differs to the wiring diagram on here.

I have wired up the kit as per the old set up, and also doubled up the wires from "V+" and "COM" to go to the x axis and the y axis stepper motor drivers.

I think its ready to turn on!

That will be tomorrow's job, for now, its bed time!

Natsterrr.

OK, I switched it on, it homed itself and then stopped. Fans working, no screeching, no chattering. When I hit the Laser button the meter went up to 15mA, and it took about 1 second to burn through 12mm of Pine.

The only adjustment I needed to make was to bring the 2nd stage mirror a little higher, then I found the best focal length to be around 26mm below the air assist nozzle.

Thanks very much to all the contributors on the forum, it looks like I'm almost there. Now I just need to hook it up to a computer and see what happens!

Natsterrr.

[natsterrr]

I've now complete my conversion, re-aligned the laser and got the hang of creating and running the programs to cut. I'm impressed with what it can do, but I have one main issue:

After first firing the laser either manually or through running a cut, the laser doesn't turn all the way off. It stays on at around 2mA, gradually burning into the timber below my honeycomb.

Any ideas as to what is wrong and how I could troubleshoot this?

I think I might install a switch from the WP back to the G (the original K40 'Laser' switch) so that I can turn the laser off manually in between cuts for now.
I'll also wire this in series with a microswitch for the lid so the laser will cut out.

Any suggestions are welcome, thanks in advance.
Natsterrr.

[salahaddam]

Hello,

I recently converted a Strong Signs S-40A which I have had and abused for a number of years and the new performance is unmatched!
My 'New' machine is capable of accomplishments I thought reserved to high-end laser engravers.

I have gone ahead and purchased another Upgrade Kit to replace my Full Spectrum - Retina Engrave driver (don't get me started).

There are a few quirks in the LaserCAD software, but it is by far the best in it's price range that I've used.

So, your problem may have to do with a software setting.
Double check "Options->System Settings->Manufacturer Paramters->Laser Parameters->Laser Mode"

When I first completed my upgrade I played with everything and found that choosing "RF Laser(preignition)" gave the same problematic results.
I have had best results with the "RF Laser(no preignition)" setting.

I am using a PWM Laser Power supply from another source and so cannot comment otherwise, except that I do have a lid switch which I've wired to enable my PSU to fire.
But it does not, and should not, continue to fire, even with the enable closed.

I've now complete my conversion, re-aligned the laser and got the hang of creating and running the programs to cut. I'm impressed with what it can do, but I have one main issue:

After first firing the laser either manually or through running a cut, the laser doesn't turn all the way off. It stays on at around 2mA, gradually burning into the timber below my honeycomb.

Any ideas as to what is wrong and how I could troubleshoot this?

I think I might install a switch from the WP back to the G (the original K40 'Laser' switch) so that I can turn the laser off manually in between cuts for now.
I'll also wire this in series with a microswitch for the lid so the laser will cut out.

Any suggestions are welcome, thanks in advance.
Natsterrr.

[Tech_Marco]

Are you using my power supply? There is a small issue on the new 40w PS and need to fine tune the frequency.

Marco
(in China)

[natsterrr]

Yes it is a brand new light object 40w pwm power supply. How do I get the frequency fixed?