Lightobject.com Support Forum

I I purchased a 7100 for a small smokehouse. I used the k thermo couple that shipped with the 7100 and a 25 amp ssr. the parameter setting are as follows

inty= k
outy= 2
caty= 0
psb=0
rd= 0

there is no dc voltage on the ssr outputs on the 7100 at any time. if i set outy to 1 the internal relay turns on an off at appropriate points,

the manual indicates that outy should have options of 0, 1, or 2. outy on this has options of 0, 1, 2, 3, and 4. is there some other setting i should be using not in the manual? or is this 7100 doa?

What is the setting on AH, AL ? If you haven't set that up, there is no output from the SSR terminals.

M

the manual is really un-helpful on this point. i have the sv at 99 the measured temp is 73
i have tried
ah=80
al=90
then i tried
ah=90
al=80
then i tried
ah=90
al=90
then i tried
ah=99
al=96
all of these scenarios result in no voltage to ssr.

what should ah and al be and what are they really doing?

AH = Temperature over this setting will energize the alarm relay, AL= Temperature under this setting will turn off the alarm rely (SSR react correspondingly).

Now let me ask you a question: you set AH = 99, AL=96, did you actually apply temperature over 99' at all? I'm assuming you set the " ' " is 'C (celsius) here.

Make it easy, do this: AH = 50'C, AL= 10'C. Boil some water till it steaming (closed to 100'C), then get some ice in a glass.

Now put the thermocouple to the hot water and you should see PV showing closed to 90'C, you will see "AL" (alarm) LED light up. By the same time you should hear a click on from the relay. Now, put the probe to the ice and shouldn't take too long you will hear the relay click again (release sound). In all time, check the voltgae output from the SSR terminals #9 and #10. Of course you have to choose SSR mode (Mode 2: Relay J1 and SSR). You should see about 8V output.

The manual isn't perfect but it's good enough to get it running. It's been using for over 6 years. May be you can help me to re-write it after you done your setup.

I think the manual is fine if you have some experience with pid controllers, know what the words mean and just need to know the specifics for this model. which, honestly, is the right manual to be giving with a piece of technical equipment like this.
it falls very short if you are a hobbyist using this this controller to further your other non-electronics based hobby. I think the solution is not to change your manual but to have some simple howtos done by users who have successfully used the controller to make something. once i get this running i will happily do one for the setup i built.

now to that point, i set it back to celsius and tried the experiment you suggested.

with a mug of water at 97c and a mug at 2c

outy set to 2

the al light came on and off as you said it would and the internal relay definitely clicked at those points. but at no point did the ssr kick on. so i did the experiment again with with the multimeter clipped on the terminals. lo and behold terminal 10 turned out to be positive dc and terminal 9 negative. i don't know if this is just an anomalous unit or if the sticker on the the unit is wrong, but now it does work. i swapped the wires at the ssr side and now it drives the ssr.

i am currently using the k thermocouple that came with the unit. i have a two wire platinum rtd. can i use that if i change the inty to pt100? or does it have to be a three wire rtd? if i can use it which terminals do i use? 6 and 8 or 7 and 8.

I read your point and I'll try to rewrite it by adding more information. But it's hard to write it to someone who doesn't has basic electronics experience. There must be a starting point somewhere instead of starting from ground "zero" as PID is not easy to understand. This PID temperature is for industry control system rather than a simple home use thermostat. It need a lot of fine tuning.

By the way, both JLD612 and 7100 support auto-tune function. When press the AT button for a second, the AT light will blink. It may take hours or even whole day to finish data analysis for the circumstance. It's deisgned for PID auto tune.

PT-100 should be 3 wires. There is a feedback (3rd wire) signal going back to the controller. It show more accurate and that's why PT-100 can do "0.1" resolution while other thermocuple can do "1.0" resolution

if you were going to update the manual the only things i would recommend is to make clearer how you get it in the modes to program, and mention or show the rune the controller uses to show K.

the manual otherwise is good for people using the controller for it's primary intended purpose. I think that what makes the forum a good idea is that people can post the other things they do with them and hopefully some howtos.

the autotune was fantastic. it took about three hours to get is thing for my application and even while tuning it wasn't more than three degrees overshot. after tuning it has stayed within less than one degree celsius. I am very happy with this controller.

thanks for the answer about the rtd. i had it leftover from another project. i will probably buy a three wire one then.