EDIT:
I tried to keep in mind that the DSP does start the laser and the DSP reset does disable the laser. I think, though, I got off on a tangent down below. My understanding is that the DSP normally controls the laser with PWM out of it's 'Laser1/Laser2' TTL terminal AND a LOW on the 'G' terminal (which subsequently runs thru say the water flow switch, door switch, key switch, etc. and to the 'G' terminal of the PS.
If the DSP is at fault, it should be at one or both of those terminals. Is the laser firing at 'full power' (plus or minus any analog current control pot)?, because it sounds like the DSP 'G' is latched low and 'TTL' is either not stopping PWM pulses or is latched fully on. Hitting reset should bring 'G' high and 'TTL' to whatever is 'OFF' for your system - High or Low. Since it does stop firing when you hit reset , your wiring and PS should be okay. The fail to fire when 'TEST' is pushed may well be a second, separate problem. I'm not sure if it ignores completely the WP/W/P input - bypasses it - or it needs it and the DSP is not providing it - which would put the problem back on the DSP.
Everything below was written earlier. I was going to delete it, but thought there might be something of use there, although probably NOT for this specific problem. Folks usually find out I'm not the sharpest marble in the shed eventually anyways, so I left it.
Well, we have the controller, wiring or the PS. No fire with the PS 'TEST' button smells like the PS to me. Double check the wiring - it's easy to get something wrong and miss it repeatedly. I try to get others to check my work; I might check, dbl check, triple check and not see the problem. Don't forget to pm or email LO - sales has always been quick to respond for me.
If the wiring is definitely good, that would leave the PS in my guess - the test button is 'local' to the PS and doesn't work, as is the TH/TTL H and TL / TTL / L circuitry. If you have a manual current adjust pot, adjust it down or disconnect it. You might try testing any 'kill' switches you have - water flow, door, laser enable what have you. From the PS wiring diagram here
download/file.php?id=32,
The water protection for the PS requires a 'low' on the WP/W/P terminal - lift that wire (DO NOT DISABLE YOUR PUMP), if the laser keeps firing, it's the PS (we just took the wiring and DSP out of the loop for that portion of the circuitry). If it dies, at least the WP portion of the PS circuits works. Connect it back up.
If lifting the wire on the WP/W/P terminal does not disable the laser, the problem is internal to the PS, because lifting that wire is the same as having your water flow switch, door switch, or key switch go open during normal operation.
A LOW on 'TH' / 'TTL H' should disable it if your system uses that input for manual or PWM control.
A HIGH on 'TL' / 'TTL L' should disable it if your system uses that input for manual or PWM control.
Which ever your system uses (probably TL/TTL L), disconnect the line and provide a HIGH or LOW as applicable thru a 1K~500 ohm resistor to limit to the terminal to 5ma~10ma (should be safe for 'TTL' inputs).
The PS may already have pull-up or pull down resistors inside - i don't know - so just lifting the wire from the terminal may suffice. If just lifting the wire has no effect disabling the laser, try with the resistor - if neither way disables the tube, the problem is internal to the PS.
If those tests DO disable the laser, then it's a wiring or controller problem.
It's helpful to know what power level the laser continues to fire at when it should be disabled, and along that line - do you have a manual current control pot hooked up? If, when it does not disable, you can vary tube current with the pot, that tells us that either TL or TH is either in solid (constant HIGH or LOW as applicable) from the controller OR inside the PS past the input circuitry OR it's pulsing at such a high rate & width as to appear constant and allow analog control. An o-scope connected to the TL or TH input to the PS would be very handy
Disconnect the TTL output at the controller - still firing - (this eliminates the controller as a cause) power supply trouble or wiring short.
Leave the controller disconnected and this time disconnect the line at the PS terminal (this eliminates the wiring as a cause)- still firing - PS trouble
I'm sorry if this is a bit jumbled - only ran my 40w tube for maybe an 1/2 hour under a minutes a time almost two years ago, so I am admittedly rusty.
IT WOULD BE PRUDENT TO DOUBLE CHECK ANYTHING I'VE POSTED WITH SOMEONE WHO IS CURRENT AND ACTIVE AT TROUBLESHOOTING CONTROLLERS AND PSs,
and to review any drawings, schematics or diagrams for your particular setup before proceeding - last thing I want is to cause anyone's equipment or person harm
due to bad advice or procedure I might give.
I sincerely hope it is a small and simple problem giving you grief,
Pars
If this was a little rambly, I was flipping back and forth thru drawings and diagrams on the screen and I apologize.
!