Moshi board pinout
Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:21 pm
For anyone looking to convert their Moshi laser, the following might be useful. Counting from the side of the ribbon closest to the bottom of the laser as it it plugged into the original Moshiboard. The one's omitted aren't necessarily not connected, but they're not needed.
3: 5 volts. This powers the LED in the optical sensor.
4: y axis signal. When the switch is not blocked, this will be at ground. When it is blocked, this pin floats.
5: x axis signal. See above.
6: ground. This is ground for the LED and for the side of the opto switch opposite the signal.
9-12: these connect to the stepper motor wires in the following order: red, blue, white yellow.
Unfortunately, the newer DSP wants the opposite signals. The old version seems to have been able to deal with it, but I guess someone had the bright idea of pulling a useful feature in the upgrade. I'm designing a board to fix this problem and make upgrading the Moshi a plug and play experience. It will: accept the ribbon cable, provide terminal blocks, regulate the 24V from the DSP to 5V, and use an inverting Schmitt trigger to flip the signal. I'll post the schematic up when I'm done. If there's interest, I might even get the board professionally etched and offer some for sale with the relevant components.
3: 5 volts. This powers the LED in the optical sensor.
4: y axis signal. When the switch is not blocked, this will be at ground. When it is blocked, this pin floats.
5: x axis signal. See above.
6: ground. This is ground for the LED and for the side of the opto switch opposite the signal.
9-12: these connect to the stepper motor wires in the following order: red, blue, white yellow.
Unfortunately, the newer DSP wants the opposite signals. The old version seems to have been able to deal with it, but I guess someone had the bright idea of pulling a useful feature in the upgrade. I'm designing a board to fix this problem and make upgrading the Moshi a plug and play experience. It will: accept the ribbon cable, provide terminal blocks, regulate the 24V from the DSP to 5V, and use an inverting Schmitt trigger to flip the signal. I'll post the schematic up when I'm done. If there's interest, I might even get the board professionally etched and offer some for sale with the relevant components.