Lightobject.com Support Forum

Hey my friend
I have converted quite a few K40 ( or better cheap chinese machines) and have to say the connection of the wire is the easy part if you follow the instruction. the next part is setting it up what is a bit more challenging. the DSP is not just for converting the little machine but also for bigger machines .
you bought a cheap chinese machine and to convert it, it needs some patient there is nothing like a quick connect and done.
greetings
walt

pannaus wrote:Marco, I must tell that the conversion does not require a bit of knowledge about wiring and such. it requires A BOATLOAD of KNOWLEDGE

Now, we got the ps to work, even though the fan does not turn on.
The display turns on, as both DSP and 24V power supply do.

The tweaking will take quite a bit. Also, a lot of things where hard to understand and find.
A better diagram of ALL the connection would have helped a lot.

Anyway, the fan works if connected to batteries, but it does not work when connected to the power supply.
The arrows on the display make the bars move, but we keep hearing a whistle coming from the motors. Also, the motors do a very ugly sound when moving...

There's a bunch of stuff that needs to get fixed in order to have a smooth working machine, but I'm afraid this forum does not deliver all the info it should. This could easily be fixed with a better connection diagram and a manual about converting the K40 to a new DSP machine.

Just a suggestion.

Now these are the only images you need to connect, if these can not be so pretty much forget about the whole thing. I guess everything is remember to read the instructions before order the card? Or am I the only one who got the card to work without major fights! In fact, I have not updated your card at all times because it works! So it is worth the upgrade . Now would be a plan anyway get a bigger table in a small area is running out of the activity increases

Light Object DSP Controller Setup Guide.pdf

DSP TYPICAL MINIMUM OPERATIONAL CONNECTIONS demo.pdf

If someone I need an images from K40IV machine I can take. the big green part can throw it into the forest seems to many to ask

We have the new 2012 DSP man...

pannaus wrote:We have the new 2012 DSP man...

But connection is simple to dsp..

I bought TB6560 driver for K40 conversion. I'd like to know what are the proper settings.
Decay mode: S1, S2 - OFF OFF
Microstep: S1, S2 - ON ON (1/8)
Current: ???

0.6 / 1.2 / 1.8 / 2.5 Amps

I have this driver: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/67125876/x/tb6560.jpg

Thanks

For X motor, use 0.6A
For Y motor, use 1.2A

Step of 1/8 is good

Connect DIR+ and PUL+ together and tight to DSP +5V
Connect DIR- to the DSP DIR-
Connect PUL- to the DSP PUL-

It should work


Marco

Thanks.

I did the wiring according to this schema. The only thing I don't know what to do with EN+ and EN- pin on my TB6560 driver?
EN+ to DC5V
EN- to GND

Right???

No connection to 'Enable'. Just leave it alone

Marco

Sorry for asking stupid questions, I'm new to CNC and steppers, etc...

So I connected the AWG-608 with TB6560 stepper drivers and stepper drivers with motors. Everything works but both motor rotates to opposite direction by default. After I turn on the system, laser head goes to the right down corner. The PC connection is OK, I set UM value.

I'm cofused how can I identify which wire of stepper motor goes to A+ A- B+ B-
Everything else looks good except the direction of movement.
Should I flip motor wires or it is better to change something in software settings?

No way to find out which pair is A+A- B+ B-
In your case, just flip over either A+ A- or B+ B- but NOT both. If you did both, it will runs the same.

Do it to X and Y. Again, only flip one pair, either A or B

Marco

Thanks, now it's OK

I finished my K40 laser convertion, now it works

I use the 'original' water pump with constant 1-1.2liter/min flowrate. Is it acceptable for this small tube?

Hi Marco,

Which air assist do you prefer to use with K40?

In your K40Conversion_B.pdf there is a picture on this:



But I don't find it in your store. I found this in store: http://www.lightobject.com/1820mm-Laser ... -P701.aspx

The 1st one looks easier to install, really compatible with K40, 2nd one looks better but some mechanical work needed to install on K40. Right?

Thanks in advance

Ok I have FINALLY finished my DSP AWC608 conversion. Just as a disclaimer, I know little to nothing about electronics and it was still pretty easy to get setup. I have attached my wiring diagram if anyone would like to look at it.

I do have a couple of issues though.

1. As I mentioned I have limited electronics knowledge, and I need to hook up the DC 100 mA digital meter that was in the kit. However I cannot figure out where the input +/- wires are supposed to be plugged into. In Marco's description he says to wire it in series from the negative of the power supply to the laser tube. I assume this is on the cathode side of the tube, but as for the PS-, is that ground or something else? I have no clue and don't want to fry the meter.

2. The laser does not cut anything thick at all. I have some 3mm board that I have been trying to cut without success. I have tried slow speed (6mm/s) with a range of power (20-90%) as well as a bit higher speed and have not had any luck. I have tried to re-align the mirrors the best I can and it looks to be ok. If I cut a box around the whole working area, it is all the same thickness and looks good. As for focal point, I am a little lost. My deck is not adjustable, so I started playing with adding something under the wood to raise it up. If I set the wood on the deck and do a cut, the lines are very crisp and small. If I raise it even 3mm, the lines start to get fat. Just as an FYI, I am approximately 65mm from the top of the head mount to the working surface if I put the material on the deck.

**Proximity Wiring Warning** Please be aware if the stepper motors are acting up when you power on the machine, it most likely is due to having the ELX- and ELY- wires flipped. When I powered mine on, it would go to the home position and just sit there and "chatter" is the best I can describe it. Or the X axis would go to the far left and bounce back and forth against the proximity switch. So if you run into this please check the wiring for the switches.

Shane:

Your diagram is an excellence and I don't see any problem with that. May I used it for supporting other folks?

Regarding the meter, "Yes", that was what I mean. Put + /- in series with the Cathode (break the blue line and put the meter in between). If you can, can you redraw it with the "mA" meter installed?

By the way, 27mA is too high to be used. It will hurt the tube and you won't get over-power but less. So, make sure that it is not over 18mA for a 40W tube. Note: the K40 is not a true 40W tube but 32~34W only.

Check the X limit switch. I look like that it's a faulty switch or lose wire connection. If the limit switches are installed on the Top-Left, make sure the LaserCad setup is also set to "Top-lef" on Worksapace set up. Password: "608" to save new setting

Sorry I was a little busy and may not return your email on time. Trying to buy a warehouse for future expansion


Marco