Couple of questions regarding upgrade

[pwoyorkie]

Hi guys,

First questions (of many no doubt)

Im following the pdf guide to upgrade my K40 to the X7 DSP kit. Ive stripped out all the old electronics as per the guide and installed the new limit switches. The picture shows the X motor wired with a cat5 cable? My X and Y motors are both the same kind of wiring. White, yellow, red and blue. Im assuming I just wire these to the stepper motor driver as in the Y motor picture?

Secondly,

I ordered and have built the Z table and honeycomb mesh. The mesh however is far bigger than the table. Do i need to cut this down? Do i also need to cut back the exhaust to properly seat the z table?

Cheers

[pwoyorkie]

I also purchased this LPSU http://www.lightobject.com/40W60W-PWM-C ... -P886.aspx

Am I right in assuming that I dont need to use the white wire on the back?

These are probably stupid questions but this is a huge learning curve and I'm a little out of my depth. I just want to be sure of what I'm doing before I blow something up.

While Im asking I may as well ask something else :p

I'm referencing a wiring diagram. On my LPSU I have: FG|AC|AC and H|L|WP|G|IN|5V

FG is ground, AC in (red), AC in (black)...the wiring diagram shows a wire to the digital ampimeter but I dont have anywhere to wire it?

On the DSP controller (box 6/Laser1) I have connected 5.GND to G on the LPSU, 3.PWM to IN on the LPSU. Where does 4.TTL wire to? L or H? I dont have a K+ on the PSU. Do i have to bridge WP to G?

If you could take time to answer I'd be much obliged. Make it easy to understand

[Techgraphix]

See if i can answer all your questions.
First, the white wire on the back. This is the return of your lasertube. On the lasertube are two connectors, one on the side where the beam exits, that's where you attach the white wire.. On the other end (where you see the curly glasstube inside) is the connector where the high voltage needs to be attached..

Your waterflow sensor or switch (WP) can be connected in two ways: or to the controller or to the HighVoltage-Powersupply(LPSU). Personaly i prefer connecting it to the controller as your controller will notice a problem in the waterflow when there is and stop. When it is connected to the LPSU the job will start or resume without lasering as the LPSU won't work.
When you connect it to the controller, you need to make a bridge (short electrical wire) between WP and GND
TTL can be coneected with L (easy to remember as L is in TTL)

If a honeycomb is too big, just cut it..
I don't know how you exhaust looks, but if it doesn't fit you have to adapt something for sure..

[pwoyorkie]

Thank you for your reply.

Just a few questions based on your response. At the moment the end of the laser tube is connected via a blue wire. This is then attched to the dial that adjusts the amperage. I assume i can disconnect this as it will controlled by the controller? If thats the case and i replace this with the white wire on the back of the lpsu to the end of the tube? The problem is the white wire is only 6 inches long. Whats the best method to acheive the connection?

Secondly i dont have a waterflow sensor as of yet so i would just not use the connection at all or do i need to ground it off somewhere.

Thanks for your patience. I was hoping i would be more capable without help but everything looks so much different to all the literature ive found.

[Techgraphix]

The dial, you're speaking about, is that a meter perhaps??
The blue wire can be used again, as you write that the white wire is only 6 inches long. (Quite short imho) If you cut the blue wire near the old LPSU and connect that to the white wire (solder it and isolate it with shrinking-tube), you can leave all connections to the meter as they where..

A waterflow-switch is a real must-have If you forget to start the waterpump or it fails for some reason (think of air in the system, worn bearings or poluted fan), your lasertube will fry itself within seconds..
For the price of a tube you could buy at least 10 flowswitches....
When there is a flow, the switch is closed so the output is connected with GND.. if you don't use a flowswitch you have to shortcircuit the WP inputs to GND..
Kees