" Z " table

[Kiwi53]

Hi all,
Your right acuralegendz about the wiring from the motor, it is 1 , 3 : 2 , 4 I checked it before wiring it up to
the driver (2M415 driver), I also set the Z driver the same as the X driver, I might be out on the settings
but it works, I set mine through the DSP controller and found that it only moved a curtain distance and
it would stop, tryed loosing the belt an realining the bed to no avale , would move the bed by hand to
a new position but same, thinking that only the DSP has a set distance that allows the Z table to
move ( 0 to 500?) not like what Marco has got in his demo. I think the diff is that using the two
buttons to the DSP controller. Even using the "Inching" option it would not go passed a set distance
(0~500)
Hope this helped
Neil

[greg_gran]

If you don't have limit switches installed and setup on the Z table, the DSP will initialize the position of the table to the middle of the range (set in the Z-axis section of Manufacturers parameters). If the table is not physically in the middle of it's range upon powerup/reset, the full mechanical range will not be available.

It seems that it is not possible to set the correct µM/pulse value to achieve the proper Z axis distance calibration. The table has a range of 80mm of movement, which would require a µM/pulse value of 0.4. Unfortunately, values of less than 1 are not accepted by the software.
My work-around is to set the Z axis µM/pulse to 4, and set the range to 800mm. I just remember that the indicated values are always 10x the actual distance. (i.e 750mm on the display is really 75mm)
Whenever I powerup the DSP, it automatically sets the current position of the Z-table to 400mm (40mm) regardless of where it physically is. This value will only be correct if the table was parked at the 400mm physical position when it was powered down.
Since I currently have no limit switches on my table, If I want to calibrate the table I use a set of dial calipers to set the table to the midpoint of it's range, and then hit the reset button. The DSP then sets the Z-axis to 400mm (40mm).

[ivantandy]

What version of LASERCAD? The main difference in smooth operation I found is the level bed with the nuts on the threaded rods loose until the bed is completely level; once set operation is smooth. But other options may not be available to configure in my version of LASERCAD.

[greg_gran]

Go into manufacturer parameters and click Z/U axes options.

[greg_gran]

I asked this question in another thread, but haven't gotten a reply. I'll ask it here since it seems like a more appropriate thread.

My Lightobject Z table has a flat metal bed which has a many rows of holes in it. However, these holes do not substitute for real honeycomb for cutting. Engraving is fine, but when cutting you get a lot of blowback of tars and resins on the bottom of the part.

Marco, is the 300x200 honeycomb (for K40) that you sell intended only for the stock K40, or is there a way to make it work with the adjustable z table also? It would be really nice to have a version of the z-table with the honeycomb installed instead of the perforated plate.

Greg

[Tech_Marco]

The honeycomb won't fit into the motorized Z table. When I ordered the honeycomb, the Z table was not exist yet. I have to use space in the K40 as much as possible so it prefect fit into the K40. Same thing to the Z table. I have to use all possible space.

I remembered that two customers file a complain and negative feedback on us because there was a frame cover up the honeycomb. They complained that the size specified on the description was not right (honeycomb area less than actual size because part of area covered up by the frame). One from Austria and one from USA. They both took my honeycomb after dispute! The guy in USA even more exaggerated by saying that light beam reflect from the frame could damage his eyes and may caused him blind. Hello~~~ To face people in that kind of attitude, it is so frustrated.

Anyway, the reason that I didn't use honeycomb on the motorize Z table because of the thickness of the honeycomb. If you want to do cutting, simply put something behind the object. For example, you can use K40 to make it frame either by pine wood or by acrylic. Then, lay out some steel wire and you can make one "knife like" bed and it is even better than honeycomb.


Marco

[jeckardt]

Well... I sure which I had known that before I ordered both z-table and honeycomb. If I had, I wouldn't have bought the honeycomb and saved a few $$. Oh, well... certainly not the worst mistake I could have made.

Maybe the way forward is to buy some of those splicing plates from Home Depot that someone suggested in another thread, to use as material stand-offs.

[Tech_Marco]

The easy way, I guess, is to use "L" angle aluminum that you can buy from HomeDepot
Make a square frame and then lay down wire on top of the L bar. You need to make some notch on the bar or simply drill some holes, whichever is easier to you. It is a simple project and I'm sure it will work good

Marco

[jeckardt]

Hmmm... you got me thinking...

Get some all-thread stock of whatever diameter seems appropriate. Make a rectangular from of that with L-brackets at the corners. Then use the thread grooves to stretch wire across to create a grid.

[mikenmel08]

Can anyone give me the internal dimensions on the Z bed? Have one on the way and would like to build a cutting platform for it before it arrives.....

Thanks
Mike

Never mind....I got it......

[mikenmel08]

Can someone please confirm the correct pin orientation ? And where they go on the Laser Controller? I'm pulling my hair out here.....