" Z " table

[billw2004]

Hi Marco,
Thoughts on Z table for D40 laser! On recieving table it was very stiff to move,loosened all the screws and retightened one by one,that eased it a bit,but I doubt if the motor would have driven it! Checked the moving plate its self,and found it was not flat,spent 20 mins getting it as flat as possible,then measured the position of the brass nuts down from top of table frame, adjusted all of them to the same measurement(within a couple of thous),reset belt and tension,and "WOW" what a difference,runs up and down as sweet as a nut.
Tried bolting it to the D40 floor plate,but not a good idea,the floor is to flexable,and on tightening screws,the whole thing locks up ! Came to the conclusion that it was easier to fix it down with double sided servo tape(model aircraft shop)as there is no side loading on it. the only other suggestion,would be to have the bottom frames made in angle plate,to enhance the the resistance to twisting.
Hope this helps others in using your excellent "Z" axis table.

Regard,
Bill Watson.

[NickWL]

I recently took delivery of a used, old-style z-table. My biggest misunderstanding in getting it up and running (having done all the alignment and 'tensioning' you speak of) was BELT TENSION.
I kept on tightening when I should have been loosening! I hadn't realised just how floppy a belt needs to be if it's to avoid straining four sets of bearings and locking everything up.

[Tech_Marco]

Do NOT has the four screws tighten up or the station won't be able to move due to the unbalanced tension. It is because the aluminum bars are not straight/solid enough to hold the position but it is a little soft. Unless it is using ball bearing but it will cost double for the current price to do other way.

When the table is moving, it may create unbalance force and the stretch give stress on the screws and causing clogging. Put some lubricant and loose the screws should make it run smooth.


Marco

[WoodChucksCNC]

I have purchased this Z table and the DSP for my K40. I will start working on the assembly this weekend I hope. I can't wait to get this thing working correctly so I can move onto putting together the 150 watt 4'x6' I got as well. OHHhh man I got to get to work.

[Velocity_Boo]

Hi I am NOT electronically minded but my friend is. I have a couple of questions about the K40 as I am interested in cutting and engraving leather.

1. Can it be converted to be used in the UK
2. If I bought a mini Z table, a M415B driver, what else do I need to connect it to a K40 small chinese CO2 laser and must I have the DSP thingy. (been reading forum posts)
3. How can I use the mini Z power table independently as I may have another use for it.

I have not purchased any of these items yet.

Please dont ignore my post, I would so much appreciate any replies to my simple questions.

kind regards,

[NickWL]

I am using a DSP'd K40, with z-table, in the UK with no serious problems. A bit of a learning curve but nothing too awful.
You need to buy the full DSP conversion kit if you want to get the best out of a cheap, shoddily-built and positively dangerous (in its original condition) K40. But it's well worth doing!

[Tech_Marco]

If you don't want to use DSP to control the 'Z' table, you can get one of this board to do it of the same way:
http://www.lightobject.com/Stepping-mot ... -P729.aspx

You need to install two limit switch to the table, then installing two momentary buttons to control it up or down
To power it up both, you better use a DC24V 3A or above power supply


Marco

[Velocity_Boo]

Thank you NickWL and Marco for your help.

I will find out if my friend is able to do this before purchasing anything.

If not, I will forget it. I don't mess with electricity.

kind regards,

Velocity_Boo

[NickWL]

It's only very small electricity - wouldn't harm a fly, let alone a grown man (or woman)!

[Velocity_Boo]

Hey I almost got fried trying to fix my sisters hair tongs, stupidly thinking i could twist the wires together, she switched it on while i was holding the wires.
I blacked out, she must have noticed me toasting and switched it off.

Then my niece leaves the electric kettle boiling without the lid (it had a fault and did not switch off automatically), I walked into the kitchen filled with condensation and switched on the light switch which had water in it. I got fried again.

Electricity hurts and electronics feeds on it.

I will pay someone to do it if I have to.

kind regards,

Velocity_Boo

[Tech_Marco]

Sorry but that was the way I learned the power of electricity.
I stated to played with electrical stuff when I was about 8years old starting DC motor. Then I tangled with AC220V in Hong Kong. You know folkz, AC110V in USA is much safer and not so mean to AC220V.

Tbere are many people got killed in HK by electricity leaking. You hardly heard thr story of people got killed by housing AC

In UK, I know it is running AC220V. So be careful

By the way, I used my fingers to test if socket live or not AC220v. Crazy me, I know
I got socked by HV from old TV and los consciousness for about 1min. And I got shocked not long ago by laser PSU. 30,000V! No fun


Marco

[Kiwi53]

Hi all,
Hey Marco, if I order a Z table for a K40 what also will I need to order to make the table run, not sure if I'll run it off
the controller or seperate buttons. Have wire an limit switches.

Thanks

Neil

ps:-I'll need the 300x200 honeycomb.

[[email protected]]

Hello
I received my K40 300X200 z-Table and decided to use the SC04 controller/tester along with the M415B motor driver to control the up/down motor.
I will use two push buttons to control the up/down functions.
I was unable to find any wiring information for this configuration so I decided to post one.
I used a drawing that Marco already had on the site.
If anyone has comments or suggestion on the document please let me know

Larry

[acuralegendz]

I recently got the Z table. I tried to get it to work with the DSP and the motor would not turn. I took the belt off to make sure that wasn't causing an issue and it still wouldn't turn. Just to make sure I had everything wired correctly I took another stepper motor and hooked it up to the z axis and it worked great. I did have to change the wire inputs going into the motor as the new stepper motor needs pins 1,3,4,6 to work. The original motor on the z table had the wires in ,2,3,4,5. Is it possible that anyone has a picture of the motor connected on both sides the motor and the stepper driver? I'd like to make sure the motor is the problem and not the wiring. I would just use my other motor but the gear doesn't seem to be removable from the original z motor.

[acuralegendz]

Well some more messing around and Ive got it to work. The stepper that comes with the z table uses pins 1,3,4,6. and I'm using the 1.5a stepper driver on LO's site @ its highest setting of 1.5a. Working great now.