Help! Question on power supply and switch hookup

[Pixelbender]

Hi all,

Any help is GREATLY appreciated, I feel like I'm just missing the last piece.

On the laser machine wiring diagram for the latest DSP card I don't see where to connect "power in" from the outlet/switch (in other words the diagram looks like a close loop). I'm also confused about which pinouts to use on my particular power supply, both the laser cathode in and power in (picture below).

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Last question, why does the power switch on the k40 have 4 pinouts? Is it breaking both the positive and negative lines? If so why? And do I wire the emergency stop button in parallel with it?

THANK YOU!!!

[ivantandy]

There is some variation in wiring among the various k40 assemblers/ as well 220/ 110 may differ from each other... but in principle you want to ground your PS from the split connection of yellow wires and run power from switch

AC to DC power supply > 110 or 220 model wiring is standard / Pos. to L and common to N/ double up connection to run power to Laser PSU from L and N to each AC respectively.

Ground wires from split : one to GND on DC power supply and other to GND on Laser Power supply.

Emergency STOP is a wired off switch run wire from on/off switch / neg is common and other connection goes to PS when circuit is broken switch is off
................................................................

found the following in the forum a while ago for 220
+Red wire from the fuse to AC on laser power supply
+Black wire from the 220V plug to AC on laser power supply
+Yellow wire from the Ground Wire Joint to the FG on the laser power supply

[Pixelbender]

Thank you! I think I've got it, does this sound right...

Both pos and neg from wall to go to power switch (switch cuts both lines, yes?) and from there the pos/neg (red/black) wires get hooked into the two "AC" ports on the left side of my power supply picture.

I am then going to double up (i.e. plug in two wires) and run a red and black wire (pos/neg) from those two "AC" ports over to the DC power supply to power it. In this situation (not using the common block originally in the K40) I can also double up the wires on the DC power supply and hook in the fan from the back of the box to those connections on the DC power supply, correct?

And on my laser power supply I believe the "L-" connection on the left side to be where the cathode from the laser tube plugs in, correct? And the "P" on the middle section of my power supply would go to "PWM" (slot 3) on Laser 1 on the DSP? And the "L" also in that middle section of my power supply would go to "TTL" (slot 4) on Laser 1 on the DSP?

If that is it thank you for your help!

[Mangus]

I just recently finished converting my K40 to DSP. My K40 had the same power supply you show in your pic. It didn't work very well with PWM, so I replaced it.

To get you going, though:

L- is the cathode (yellow wire in my recently purchased K40)
FG is the AC ground wire (gray in my newly purchased K40)
AC and AC are the neutral and hot AC lines (both red in my machine). You shouldn't need to cut any lines for AC if you're keeping the stock switch (no reason not to, in my opinion).

G is ground (bridge this one to P if not using a flow sensor or laser safety switch)
P is (water) protection
L is TTL (low)
G is ground (use this for your TTL ground)
IN is PWM (note: the power supply you have will not work well with PWM - I had to replace mine when I couldn't get more than about 6 mA at 98% power from the 608. You should be able to get [being careful not to go over] 15 mA)
5v is unneeded

The third connector unneeded.

Again, I recommend replacing this power supply. If you don't, you may find you'll have to go back to analog power control (the potentiometer from the stock K40).

Let me know if you have any further questions.