my 40W 2012 DSP conversion

[concretevapor]

so here I have

TB6560 and AWC608 connected BUT

i cant tell which wire is which coming from the stepper motors
red, white, yellow, blue

i assume they are the B-, B+, A-, A+

thanks

[Tech_Marco]

On my K40 machine, here is what I found:

Pair one: Red, Blue
Pair two: Yellow, white

Doesn't matter whether it is A or B. It's just a matter of direction it will spin

Marco

[concretevapor]

thanks marco!

i had them white red, yellow blue pairs..i guess color theory doesnt work well with electronics:)

i wont find out if they work until i hook up the PS units. and that part scares me a bit.

i have often heard about the necessity of testing the output of each PS unit prior to connecting them, inorder to not fry anything.
-what sort of multimeter will i need for this? will a cheap function work or am i looking for a specific function that is only available in high end models?

also, there is only one fuse to protect everything inside the case, i wonder if it's necessary to add a fuse for each PS unit?


its been about 1 year since i got the machine disassembled, so surely i forgot how some basic things were wired, such as the onoff switch in relation to the PS units, outlets in the back of the machine, the light bulb inside and the water pump. this must be the simplest connection but lets see how far i get until the end of the day!

best,
berk

[Tech_Marco]

Never do it with a regular or even high end voltmeter trying to measure the output from a laser power supply!
The output of a CO2 power supply range from 20KV to 40KV and it can kill you voltmeter without 1 second need.
You may connect a current meter in series instead to limit current passing through to the laser tube. For K40, the current should be limited to 18mA or below
For your reference, a 60W may run at 22~24mA, 80W: 28mA, a 100W laser tub 30~32mA. If it's Reci tube, 80W: 26~28mA, 100W: 28~30mA

Marco

[concretevapor]

today i got myself a nice multimeter, its no flucke but a voltcraft VC 820 and its red!

great advice on the current meter, even with the DSP. thanks marco!
i had assumed that the DSP would already do something to protect it all.
so ideally, i'd want to connect the limiter then the current meter in series on the +pole before the laser.


i have 2 useful wiring diagrams at the moment, one tells me to connect the 5V output from the controller to the driver while the other one tells me to directly connect to the 24V PS

if you want to look closer to the situation, below is what
1- limited for AWC-608 only. this one tells me to;
-bridge [PUL+] and [DIR+] on the driver(TB6560) and connect the bridge to [DC5V] from AWC-608
-[DIR (3)] from AWC-608 goes to [DIR-] at TB6560

2- the entire wiring diagram inclusive to all necessary hardware. tells me to;
-connect 24V PS to the driver (instead of 5V from controller as mentioned above)
-[STEP/PUL-] from AWC-608 to [STEP](without any indication of polarity)
-[DIR-] from AWC-608 to [DIR](without any indication of polarity)



hmm...which one is it?

best,
berk

[concretevapor]

I got a bit further today

everything is pretty much wired up, for sure there are uncertainties but that the fun.

at the moment I am trying to find out about where to connect the cables that come out of; test and engrave on/off buttons, 1 red and 1 green LED which are on the oem control panel.

still a little confused about which port the 5V from the controller should connect at the driver TB6560? i am guessing one of the EN ports.

i am also curious why;
- the DIR+ and PUL+ ports at the TB6560 driver
- WP and G ports at the laser PS need to be bridged?


aaah this is so exciting!!!

[thenar]

so here I have

TB6560 and AWC608 connected BUT

i cant tell which wire is which coming from the stepper motors
red, white, yellow, blue

i assume they are the B-, B+, A-, A+

thanks

You can use an ohm meter to see which pairs are connected. I wouldn't go by color alone...make a quick meter reading, takes ten seconds.

[concretevapor]

thanks thenar, i can already see which cables are coming form which motor. now they are all in. i hear nothing can be fried to easily if wired wrong within the parameters, so really going for this set up. just waiting on the xp laptop to get started.

[concretevapor]

i now have an arbitrarily working cnc laser.

thanks to all with all the valuable tips, i am no where finished, but at least everything is wired up and connected to my little laptop, running PHcadV6.27 under win7. i cant wait to get back to autocad, but thats not going to happen until i am done adjusting this mother's parameters.

got one of those protective outlets for the laser, used my older 2,5mm X 2 speaker cables as grounding cable which plugs into a grounded socket. plus a 5mm solid copper wire which contacts the radiator. so i think i am well grounded. I didnt check with the multimeter though.

although i insulated the laser PS cable with shrink tube, i saw some crazy sparks, im thinking silicone tubing will resolve that.

i attempted to cut that 50mm X 50mm square inorder to set the X,Y pulse unit ratios, but no luck, the result(s) looked like a yet to be discovered cluster of stars out of this universe.

i am also having problems with the limit switches, cant seem to find a way to get them to work. i tried all different configurations as in polarity and combinations but still no luck. all that happened was that the "mechanical home" would flip from "top left" to "bottom right"
but i have the limit switches on top and left. i think i need to install 2 more, so the cnc wont keep beating itself up. sometimes it would just bounce off of it self. really scary situation, if anything breaks or burns, that means cash and time, none of which i have.

actually because there were only 2 LS installed by the manufacturer, the mirror on X would keep ramming onto the side without the LS, so much that it unscrewed itself off. now i have to readjust the mirrors too. I was wondering why there was so much hot glue applied on the mirror adjustment screws, couldnt they just add 2 more LS instead?

if anyone wants to see any particular photos of this, let me know.

greetings from berlin

[Tech_Marco]

Not a good sign when you see the sparks! It could damge the DSP controller or other devices. You need to make sure that the HV cable is firmly connected to the laser tube and a return ground wire to the power supply. Noting can be "opened circuit" or expecting trouble.

The DSP controller allow you to pick the "Home" if you don't want to change wire connection on the motor driver. Just use the LaserCad manufacturer parramters and you can change anyway you want ->Datum. Also, you need to select proper "Work space" to match the layout you prefer.

Do not connect anything to the "EN+" or "EN-" of motor driver. It is designed for manual stopping or enable a motor. So, leave it alone. If you'r using TB6560 single axis driver, what you need to do is:

1) Tide DIR + and PUL + together and connect to the +5V of DSP
2) Tide DIR - to DSP DIR -
3) Tide PUL - to DSP PUL -

That's it, three wires connection only

Do this without the laser power supply. I don't want you to 'kill' the DSP before having the system setup properly. Or I'll charge you a big time to fix it


Marco

[waltfl]

Hi there
I just wondering if you have a AWC 608 DSP from marco LO what you want with the PHcad because it does not work with the AWC DSP
you need the lasercut programm.
greetings
walt

i now have an arbitrarily working cnc laser.

thanks to all with all the valuable tips, i am no where finished, but at least everything is wired up and connected to my little laptop, running PHcadV6.27 under win7. i cant wait to get back to autocad, but thats not going to happen until i am done adjusting this mother's parameters.

got one of those protective outlets for the laser, used my older 2,5mm X 2 speaker cables as grounding cable which plugs into a grounded socket. plus a 5mm solid copper wire which contacts the radiator. so i think i am well grounded. I didnt check with the multimeter though.

although i insulated the laser PS cable with shrink tube, i saw some crazy sparks, im thinking silicone tubing will resolve that.

i attempted to cut that 50mm X 50mm square inorder to set the X,Y pulse unit ratios, but no luck, the result(s) looked like a yet to be discovered cluster of stars out of this universe.

i am also having problems with the limit switches, cant seem to find a way to get them to work. i tried all different configurations as in polarity and combinations but still no luck. all that happened was that the "mechanical home" would flip from "top left" to "bottom right"
but i have the limit switches on top and left. i think i need to install 2 more, so the cnc wont keep beating itself up. sometimes it would just bounce off of it self. really scary situation, if anything breaks or burns, that means cash and time, none of which i have.

actually because there were only 2 LS installed by the manufacturer, the mirror on X would keep ramming onto the side without the LS, so much that it unscrewed itself off. now i have to readjust the mirrors too. I was wondering why there was so much hot glue applied on the mirror adjustment screws, couldnt they just add 2 more LS instead?

if anyone wants to see any particular photos of this, let me know.

greetings from berlin

[concretevapor]

That's it, three wires connection only

Marco

they were already wired this way

however the wire gauge is not consistent throughout the entire system. i ran out of wire and had to recycle some of which came out of the moshi system.

so i think i have
1mm wire for 24V power connections
0,5mm and 0,25mm for communication of controller/driver
0,25mm for the steppers

sometimes i think all the data com wires should all be the same size, do you think thats a problem.

I have the AWC 608 + TB6560
all from marco

thanks for the help guys

[waltfl]

Hi there

the wire size is not so important except the main power lines.
replace the limit switch this should solve your probleme.
but you need the lasercut programm in order to connect to the DSP forget the PHcad.
if you wana make changes on the machine you need first hit the read botton in the manufacturer settings
then change and then hit save. the most guys forget to hit the read botton without this the changes will
not be executed.
also hit the reset botton on the display and the datum in lasercut.
greetings
walt

That's it, three wires connection only

Marco

they were already wired this way

however the wire gauge is not consistent throughout the entire system. i ran out of wire and had to recycle some of which came out of the moshi system.

so i think i have
1mm wire for 24V power connections
0,5mm and 0,25mm for communication of controller/driver
0,25mm for the steppers

sometimes i think all the data com wires should all be the same size, do you think thats a problem.

I have the AWC 608 + TB6560
all from marco

thanks for the help guys

[concretevapor]

but you need the lasercut programm in order to connect to the DSP forget the PHcad.

i have AWC 608 Anywells + 2012 dsp with laserCAD V6.27 which Marco provided

[waltfl]

Hi there
lasercut 6.27 is correct why you write that you use the phcad????
greetings
waltfl

but you need the lasercut programm in order to connect to the DSP forget the PHcad.

i have AWC 608 Anywells + 2012 dsp with laserCAD V6.27 which Marco provided