Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

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aboston
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Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by aboston »

Hello all. I bought three of the JLD-612 controllers and am trying to wire them up using a diagram that was designed for some controllers from Auber. I am confused about the alarm terminal wiring. I was hoping I could post the diagram of what I am trying to build and maybe someone here could point me in the right direction?

Here is the diagram I am trying to follow:

Image

On this controller, pins 1 & 13 are used for AL1 and pins 14 & 13 are used for AL2, pin 13 being shared. How would I wire up my JLD-612 controllers to match the wiring shown above? Would I just bridge two teminals together on each controller (i.e. 13 & 4 or 14 & 5)? Does it matter which 2 terminals I use if this is the case? Which terminal(s) would be the "common" alarm terminal(s) I would use to connect it to the timer? I have the Omega timer shown in the diagram.

Thanks for your help
richiem
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by richiem »

Since on each controller, 1 & 14 are shorted together, that means that the associated contactor is getting power from the AL1 and/or from AL2 relays when they close, and I would need to know when those conditions occur. If you have details of the Omega timer and of the controllers, it would help. Are the controllers actually controlling anything except alarms? Are there heaters in this system somewhere? What exactly are the contactors hooked up to?

Maybe make a simple flowchart of "what is supposed to happen when" in your desired system -- then it may be possible to point you in the right direction.
aboston
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by aboston »

thanks for the response. These alarms are to help monitor the temperature levels of boiling liquid while making beer! AL1 is for high temp (when water reaches near boiling, I will probably set it to about 208* F) and AL2 is for low temp (i don't really have a need for this alarm). The switches below are to enable the alarm for each of the controllers/timer. I am not sure if leaving AL2 disconnected will affect anything, so that may be a possibility. The only thing this will control is a flashing buzzer/light. As far as details on the timer and the controllers, is there anything specific you need to know? I have access to both manuals. If I knew the info or type of info you were after, I could read through the manuals and try and find the info you are looking for. It all looks greek to me... The answer may be simple and right in front of me, but I am still very much a beginner when it comes to this stuff.

As far as a flow chart: I think the writer of the instructions I am following explains it best, so this might help with the purpose of the alarms? Here is a link to the page that has tons of images of what I am trying to build:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/contr ... -2?page=11

Here is text copied from that page:

You'll need to change a few settings on the PID controllers for our setup. These are one-time setting changes that are done and saved. The PIDs will remember whatever settings you enter even when powered off.

To modify the settings, hold down the SET button on the PID for 3 seconds to enter programming mode. The up/down arrow buttons are then used to change the current setting. The SET button is used to advance to the next setting. Once done, simply wait 10 seconds. All settings will be saved and the PID will return to the normal operating mode.

For the most part we use the default settings. There are only a few we modify:

Sn: Tells the PID what type of temperature probe is used. Set this to 21 for all 3 PIDs to tell them that we're using RTD type temperature probes.
Pb: This is the temperature calibration offset and is set differently for each PID based on how the specific RTD temperature probe measures. Every probe will have some error associated with it and this Pb setting is used to correct for this error. For example, if the probe measures 1 degree too high, you would set Pb to -1 to correct the error. The critical range brewers care about is typically the 140-160F mash temperature range so if possible, it's best to calibrate to a sample in this range. One way to do this is to use a known good temperature probe (such as the ThermoWorks ThermaPen) submersed in hot water along with the RTD probe. Use the difference between the two numbers to create the Pb offset and repeat for each PID controller. While RTD probes tend to drift less than others, we still recommend re-measuring once a year to make sure the RTD probe and PID combination is still measuring accurately. Note that the offset doesn't care if your PID is set to display temperature in Fahrenheit or Celsius, the offset value is simple added to whatever value is measured.
FILT: This controls a digital filter that is used to smooth out possible noise that may exist when taking temperature readings. The default is 0 (no filter) such that the PID updates the temperature reading as fast possible. We set this to 5 to avoid oscillations between two numbers as the reading crosses over from one value to another. Higher values result in slower response time but this is not an issue in brewing as temperatures move slowly (relatively speaking).
A-M: This controls whether automatic or manual (or both) PID control modes are allowed. The default value of 2 disables manual mode completely and is fine for the Hot Liquor Tank and Mash/Lauter Tun PIDs. For the Boil Kettle PID this should be set to 0 so that both manual and automatic modes can be used. We use manual mode exclusively. Some people may prefer to initially run the PID in automatic mode with a temperature set to just below boiling (like 208F) and turn on the alarm. The alarm will then sound when 208F is reached and the PID can be switched to manual mode to continue with boiling while carefully watching for a boilover.

Some other settings that may be useful:

ALM1: This setting can be used to set a high temperature alarm. As the temperature passes through this set value going upwards our alarm will sound. Useful for knowing when the strike or sparge water temperature is reached in the Hot Liquor Tank, or when we're getting close to boil in the Boil Kettle.
ALM2: This setting can be used to set a low temperature alarm. As the temperature passes through this set value going downwards our alarm will sound. We don't use this ourselves, but it would be useful for brewers who use immersion chillers in the Boil Kettle to know when their yeast pitching temperature is reached.
COOL: The default setting of 10 sets the PID controller into Fahrenheit and heat mode which is perfect for most North American brewers. If you prefer to display temperature in Celsius instead, set this to 2. If display in Celsius you should also set the dP setting to 1 such that 0.1 degree resolution is used. (Unfortunately the dP setting has no effect when the PID is displaying temperature in Fahrenheit).

Other settings exist but these are the only ones that we find important and/or have changed from the default settings. For more information, refer to your PID controller manual.


Thank you again for your time!
Al
richiem
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by richiem »

Why someone would use *three* PID controllers to just turn alarm lights and buzzers on is beyond me -- this criticism may not be justified, but I make it anyway -- why not just use thermostats? There doesn't seem to be a need for great precision anywhere here. But then, I haven't made beer for years, so what do I know?

His writeup has the pertinent info you need -- just translate what he says about settings on his controllers to your JLD-612s -- otherwise, most things are the same. Of course his controllers have slightly different relay setups for the alarms, but I think you can work that out. Just remember that normally open (NO) means open contacts when the relay is not energized -- ie, when the alarm setting is not reached. Normally closed (NC) means just the opposite. The 612's J1 relay has the NC, common (C), and NO contacts on 3, 4 and 5. respectively. Relay J2 is NO only, on 13 and 14.

Persevere, and good luck.
aboston
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by aboston »

Maybe I misunderstood your question...

The PID controllers also control electric heating elements. Temperature control and accuracy is key to make consistent batches of beer. I misread your question regarding what the controllers were for. I thought you wanted to know what the alarms were for. Sorry about that. I am guessing the AL1 and AL2 terminals are bridged because they light off the same physical alarm?

Anyway, thank you for your help. I think typing it all out sort of helps me hear it "out loud". If you have any other suggestions, I would love to hear them!

Thanks again.
richiem
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by richiem »

OK, heating elements, that makes more sense -- but they're not shown on the diagram. Three separate vats/tubs/big jugs?
aboston
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Re: Noobie needs help with wiring diagram please!!

Post by aboston »

Yessir!

The schematics are all broken down into different phases of construction. This drawing was just for the assembly of the control box.
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