Looking for some help wiring in X7 on 600/900 80w SOLVED

[Tech_Marco]

The direction of HOMEing or Key press is totally configurable through LaserCad. You can for sure do it by switching wires as well but why bother to do it if software can let you do it quick

If you have Upper Left Home and the motor is running to the Upper Right, then just change the direction of the "Datum" for the Y in the opposite. That will take care it. Same thing to the Key direction

Also, check on my "FAQ" when you're ready to fine tuned the machine

Marco

[funhawke]

I have tried that but it does not save the configuration on the machine?

[Tech_Marco]

You need to Read first, then Save it
Press RESET button to take effect


Marco

[funhawke]

All xy directions are working

No luck setting origin when machine starts. Unless I intervene it goes to upper right limit switch and freezes because it is against the limit switch..Nothing happens until I restart the machine - but I have to stop its journey to the limit switch or I repeat the process.

I have unchecked "return to xy home" on restart so as not to have it hit the stop limits on startup but this throws off the range...it appears. Damn I hear this controller is the be all but right now it bites not being able to know what it will do next.

Does anyone have any trouble setting home?

[funhawke]

In a nutshell - how do I SET home? Upper right or Upper left dont matter, got that figured out - just need to find home and set it...

ET

[Tech_Marco]

HOME is where you can define yourself by using limit switches to settle physical zero. If it doesn't stop, check your limit switch and wiring. No reason it won't work if you did it properly. Are you sure you use right limit switch poles? Are you sure you're connecting Gnd vs EX- and Gnd vs EY- Are you sure you're using Normally Opened on the limit switch...

If you short Gnd and EX- or Gnd to EY- you will see some red light is lighting up insider of the DSP main board(silver case) by the side.

By the way, you don't need to wait till the gantry on the bar. You can manual toggle the limit switch to stop the movement. If it doesn't STOP, something wrong with you connection.


Marco

[funhawke]

All wiring checked - all appears correct. All lights are green - no red lights.

I was aware you can stop as gantry makes its way to home and have been doing this but unchecked "return to xyhome" option to save the hassle.

Still no luck in setting home. If I let it go to the limit switches it stops fine but becasue the limit switch is activated it will not move x or y. The same issue is affecting the z range as well. When I up the z table it wants to push through the table, conversely when I send it down it only goes down 10 cm - barely enough allowance to activate the rotary switch.

Still not working properly. I can cut etc but the location of the xyz is unpredictable right now. When I move the x or y by the direction key, it will stop in the middle of the table, reducing the range to less than half its capability. Need a lesson on range. I have set the range of the table to 600x900cm but does not seem to make a difference.

....Lost in no space.

[Techgraphix]

i guess you have some settings wrong:
by triggering the limitswitches at the home position the value of resp. X and Y are set to zero on that spot. AND after that it can only move in the direction FROM that switch.
If you made a wrong entry in microstepping for instance, your machine thinks it traveled 600 down while it was actual 300mm: it will stop halfway ofcourse.
But first things thirst:
I remember that i had some trouble too, when i build my machine, to get all directions right... when the keymovement was right, it traveled the wrong way or not at all.. It's a matter of + or - on the right spot, trial and error as i mentioned before. and remember that minus times minus = positive
Same as setting the acceleration: first times i often got the message "out of boundary" when i wanted to engrave.... before i thought out what could be wrong, it took some days. But then it was quite logic to me. Engraving with 1000mm/sec and an acceleration of 150mm/s^2 need so much extra space around your object that it must start at a point beyond the boundaries of the machine (this is just an example..)
Building your own laser is one big journey to knowledge! Same voyage you are making now..(i hope..) With a little help this "voyage" will be shorter ofcourse..
One thing i can advise you: do one thing at the time, write down what you do and what the consequences are. Interprete the difference, combine the effects and think out the solution...
BTW, What kind of limitswitches are you using? Microswitches or Proximitysensors?

Kees

[funhawke]

Thanks Kees - your advice is taken. One step at at time.

Switches - not sure if micro or proximity. How can you tell the difference.

I am in apparel business - and tried a logo that I had done in the past which is debossed (engraved) and cut. The first try - too deep and went through the material. After I changed power to 1 and speed to 300 - still too deep. I think it has something do to with the acceleration, yes? I just want to remove a small layer (.01 mm) of the material.

Still no luck with home or range - dont understand the concept. On the leetro controller, I could place the laser at any point on the bed and that would be home - and I would start from there. Currently the limit switches are upper right.

[Techgraphix]

If you google "proximity sensor" you will see many pictures of small round bars wit a colored end and a wire coming from the other side.. But they also come in a box shape with a wire on the back. Often there is a LED near the wire, indicating the trigger..
When you enter "microswitch" you will see box-shaped things with 3 solderconnections and most of the time a lever or button.
Microswitches are mechnical, Proxi's pure electronic
If your power is set to 1% and you still have too much power, then check the settings/wiring.. Normaly a CO2 lasertube won't fire at all under ~10-15%

Acceleration does noting with the engraving itself: it only determines the distance the head has to travel to reach the wanted speed.
Normaly al the actual engraving is done with the same wanted speed. But you will see that he head starts a distance left from the object and stops on the right of it (and backwards ofcourse) This distance will be smaller if you set the accelration higher.. But too high an you will loose steps..

Kees

[funhawke]

Microswitch for sure.

So what could I possibly have miswired if it does not engrave very lightly. I have tried other products such as wood and it works fine?

I just did this on wood and it worked great - outside cut 10/100 and engraved heart 300/3 (see heart pic closeup - this is an engrave not a cut (supposed to look like someone scratched it in with a penknife)

IMG_1973.JPG (344.74 KiB) Viewed 4326 times

IMG_1973-001.JPG (23.56 KiB) Viewed 4326 times

[Techgraphix]

not looking bad at all...
But i, seriously, doubt that your HV-powersupply is connected right to your controller:
I do use a 608 but i think they will operate almost the same way... With 3% of power your lasertube won't start at all.. 10-15% is more likely.
One thing you must do is a test:
place a milliampmeter (25-30mA is enough) between the return of your lasertube and the supply so you can measure the actual current flowing through the tube.
place something like a brick (from the street) under the laserhead and draw three lines, one with 100%, one with 50% and one with 10%
While lasering these lines, observe the current.. if you use a 40W tube you must see currents of about 20mA, 10mA and 2mA respectively..
If you see the same current with all the lines, your powersupply is NOT controlled by the 708C.
This can be caused by wrong wiring or a setting in the controller like the TLL-level setting.. with TTL-L connected it should be low level active (on the manufacturer page.. remember to read and save the settings prior to using them)

Kees

[funhawke]

I will check it out Kees - I have an 80w and often with my old Leetro controller would go down to 5 on the power setting. I would do this for engraving on twill material (cloth like material).

Still can not figure out the bed range. I am working around it right now until I have more time to fiddle.

Can I purchase a amp-meter to place permanently on the machine do you know?

[Techgraphix]

Can I purchase a amp-meter to place permanently on the machine do you know?

Yes, ofcourse you can.
That can be both a digital or a normal analog meter.. With 80W i would suggest to look for one in the 30mA range.
When you look in the datasheet of your tube you will find the current that is typical for that tube.. i think it will be something of 24-26mA (just a guess)
When tubes get older they can draw more current.. normaly that means that the tube is at its end..
You will only see some usefull info on that meter while cutting as the current, while engraving is more pulsed... you will only see the average current and normaly that is just a fraction of the power that is set in the software.. For example: when you set 70% and your tubecurrent is 25mA you may see only a fluctuating number of around 2 mA, depending on the density of the picture you're engraving.
But while cutting you can see the actual current.
For the test you can also use your multimeter instead..

Kees

[Tech_Marco]

Do NOT connect the 24V output from the old board to the X7 board. It is an Output, not input. Don't do it. Plus, for the laser power output, you only use 3 wires: TTL, PWM, COM , ignore the +5V. Also, forget the connection for the "WP" as the laser power supply should have a connection exclusively for the water protection.


Marco